26 April 2015
"In Manchuria" by Michael Meyer
I recently picked up Michael Meyer's In Manchuria, and it's slowly helping me to fall back into like - alas, it's not love yet - with northeastern China. Meyer's descriptions of the landscape and history of this region as well as his exploration of Chinese culture generally (and northeastern Chinese culture in particular) have warmed my weary heart. I'm still a couple of months away from marking the anniversary of my move to Harbin, so it's natural to be somewhat disenchanted with the place. (In my life experience, anyways. I've only moved 20+ times in the last 30 years though, so I may well not know what I'm talking about...) All the same, stumbling across In Manchuria has been a very happy accident and a big help as I navigate the latest round of homesickness and annoyance with the million little frustrations that are part and parcel of adjusting to a new home. The experiences Meyer recounts are largely in the countryside - in a village far to the southwest of Harbin - but even so I would recommend In Manchuria to anyone considering a move to the city, or elsewhere in northeastern China for that matter! If you read it, I hope you enjoy it as much as I have!
21 April 2015
Train Travel in China
This post won't be particularly Harbin-focused, but there were few enough posts out there about the details of train travel - particularly overnight train travel - in China that I thought I'd write something about my recent experiences on an overnight train trip. I hope they're helpful to other would-be travelers!
From my limited (so far) experience, when you get to your local train station there'll be a row of security booths - most of them with some sort of "line" since it's China (here a "line" is usually what we'd call a crowd in North America) - where you'll need to show an officer your ticket and passport to get into departures. The document check will be followed by security, which will pointlessly scan your bags (I have yet to see anyone stopped in any sort of bag scan here) and possibly give you another pointless body scan. (I've had all kinds of metallic objects in my pockets and, again, have yet to be stopped after a body scan.)
Once you've cleared security things can get tricky. When I was leaving Harbin the posted information about departures and departure halls was accurate and it was relatively easy to find my departure hall and the queue (again, a mass of people, not a queue as we think of it) for my particular train. When I was returning to Harbin, however, the departure hall posted for my train was incorrect. If I hadn't run into a truly eccentric fellow passenger with a somewhat off-putting - and, in retrospect, touching - concern for where I was going and where I needed to be I might possibly have missed my train home! (I was in a departure hall for Harbin-bound trains, but my particular train had been switched to another hall and was partway through boarding by the time I'd made it to the correct hall!) So, I would advise asking one of the many train station employees standing around departures about your
departure hall. Even if they don't speak English they can read your ticket and direct you to where you need to go, whether it's the hall posted on the information boards or not! (And chances are they'll speak at least a little English.)
Boarding happens approximately 30 minutes before the train's scheduled departure and, as with everything in China, involves masses of people pushing and shoving to cut in front of each other and get on the train first. Hold your own, stand your ground, and you'll get in somewhere in the middle of the herd. Try to be polite in a Western sense and you'll be the last one on board. (Don't take any of it personally, unfortunately it's just how things are here.) There's no need to stamp on anyone's toes (well, generally there isn't!), just be ready to stand firm when someone start to shift you out of their way and to angle your suitcase/bags/shoulder/body/foot/whatever into the next open space ahead of you before someone behind you does!
Once you're through to your platform - you'll know it 'cause you'll be swept up in the massive river of people flowing towards it - head for your car (see the ticket infographic for the details on this) where you'll need to show the attending steward your ticket to verify you're at the right one. Then find your berth. If you're illiterate like me you'll want to ask a friend ahead of time which berths you're in and
perhaps write them on the backs of your tickets so that you don't forget. Finding your berth is pretty straightforward. In the 'hard' sleeper cars there are no doors, and each section has two numbers posted (both on the walls inside the sections and on the walls across the aisles from them) indicating which set of bunks you're on. At that point you just need to get your bags into the rack across the aisle or under the bottom bunk and then settle in, either on your bunk or in one of the pull-down seats across the aisle by the windows. (Assuming they're not occupied of course!) If you're over six feet like me you will be very cramped, and might want to try to get one of the aisle seats as soon as they become available. Your butt may hurt after a while, but it'll be more comfortable than staying in the fetal position if you're on the middle bunk as I was!
An amazing aspect of traveling by train versus flying in China - in my experience, anyways - is that the trains seem to leave either on time (at worst) or a few minutes early! Now, that's only two trains for me so far, but contrast those two experiences with the five or six flights I've taken out of Chinese airports in the last year, all of which were at least 30 minutes late, if not much later. (I'm thankful I've always had two or three hour layovers before connecting flights or I would have missed several of
them!) I'm very grateful that I arrived at the train station about an hour and a half before both of my trips - it gave me just enough time to clear document check and security, find my hall, and make boarding. Given the masses of people at train stations here and the trains' punctuality it wouldn't pay to be late!
I didn't have any problems with other passengers trying to get into my things, but I was warned ahead of time to keep my valuables (money, credit cards, ID, tickets, phone, et cetera) with me at all times and given my already well established mistrust of others I always travel with a lock on my suitcase and smaller bags. When it's cold keeping your valuables on you is relatively easy since you can squirrel them away in the various pockets of your winter coat and wear it when you need to go to the bathroom stalls, which, being between the cars, are rather chilly. In warmer weather I imagine it would be a bit more difficult. (If I travel in the summer I think I'll lock a few things away in my suitcase for the duration of the trip and keep absolute essentials in my jeans pockets.) I also used my coat and messenger bag as a pillow when I went to bed to ensure my things didn't walk away during the night. (Better safe than sorry!) Although the lights go out around 10pm many passengers stay up talking or playing games with their berth mates till much latter, and there's enough going on that it would be relatively easy for someone to go up and down the car looking for easy pickings from those already asleep.
Once your train's underway an attendant will come through to switch your paper ticket for a flashy card showing the same information. Don't lose it, 'cause you'll need to switch it back shortly before arrival! (What the point of this switch is I do not know.) Food carts will start going up and down the train periodically, but as these are mostly noodle packs, sodas, and unhealthy snacks you might want to bring your own food with you. Only small bottles of water are sold, so if you drink a lot of water (like me) and don't trust the hot water dispensers found in nearly every public space here, then you'll want to bring a 1.5L bottle of water or two with you on the train. Many other passengers brought full (if cold)
meals on board with them, others fruit and their own snacks, so it's by no means out of the ordinary. I'm told there's a food car somewhere along the train, but given the length and crowdedness of the trains I was on I decided it wasn't worth searching for.
The 'hard' sleeper cars are basically one large dormitory, so there may be a bit of a smell when you get up. All the same, it's worth it to get a bunk somewhere in the middle of the car or else you'll get a lot of cigarette smoke from the spaces between the cars, which in addition to housing the bathroom stalls (floor toilets only on my cars) are also the designated smoking areas. (In defense of this, the stalls are in such a state that the smokers do something of a public service in covering up the smell with the cigarette smoke.) If your lungs are sensitive to such things though you might consider wearing a face mask (something PM2.5-proof) while on board, although you'd likely be the only one. (Between the epic sanitation fails, pollution, and universal smoking - indoors and out - China simply is not a health-friendly country.)
Even though I didn't fit on the sleeper bunks without some scrunching, I slept remarkably well on both of my overnight journeys and woke up much more refreshed than I ever have on an airplane. Arrival was more of the same from boarding - masses of people all trying to go in the same direction at once - and took a while. Although arrivals seem to be on time I wouldn't plan to be able to get anywhere fast - first there are the crowds, and then you have to go through more lines to show station officers your ticket (yet again) to exit the station. And given how many people arrive at once transportation - whether it's a taxi, bus, or the metro - is likely to involve a long line and at least half an hour of waiting. All the same, I enjoyed my train experience and wouldn't mind doing it again, especially given the possibility of rest and the reliability of the departure/arrival times! (And then of course there's the cost - my roundtrip on the train came in under $100, whereas the roundtrip flights would have been well over $300.) I hope any experiences you have on a Chinese train will be similarly enjoyable!
From my limited (so far) experience, when you get to your local train station there'll be a row of security booths - most of them with some sort of "line" since it's China (here a "line" is usually what we'd call a crowd in North America) - where you'll need to show an officer your ticket and passport to get into departures. The document check will be followed by security, which will pointlessly scan your bags (I have yet to see anyone stopped in any sort of bag scan here) and possibly give you another pointless body scan. (I've had all kinds of metallic objects in my pockets and, again, have yet to be stopped after a body scan.)
Once you've cleared security things can get tricky. When I was leaving Harbin the posted information about departures and departure halls was accurate and it was relatively easy to find my departure hall and the queue (again, a mass of people, not a queue as we think of it) for my particular train. When I was returning to Harbin, however, the departure hall posted for my train was incorrect. If I hadn't run into a truly eccentric fellow passenger with a somewhat off-putting - and, in retrospect, touching - concern for where I was going and where I needed to be I might possibly have missed my train home! (I was in a departure hall for Harbin-bound trains, but my particular train had been switched to another hall and was partway through boarding by the time I'd made it to the correct hall!) So, I would advise asking one of the many train station employees standing around departures about your
 |
| A glimpse of my departure hall leaving Harbin. |
Boarding happens approximately 30 minutes before the train's scheduled departure and, as with everything in China, involves masses of people pushing and shoving to cut in front of each other and get on the train first. Hold your own, stand your ground, and you'll get in somewhere in the middle of the herd. Try to be polite in a Western sense and you'll be the last one on board. (Don't take any of it personally, unfortunately it's just how things are here.) There's no need to stamp on anyone's toes (well, generally there isn't!), just be ready to stand firm when someone start to shift you out of their way and to angle your suitcase/bags/shoulder/body/foot/whatever into the next open space ahead of you before someone behind you does!
Once you're through to your platform - you'll know it 'cause you'll be swept up in the massive river of people flowing towards it - head for your car (see the ticket infographic for the details on this) where you'll need to show the attending steward your ticket to verify you're at the right one. Then find your berth. If you're illiterate like me you'll want to ask a friend ahead of time which berths you're in and
 |
| Thanks to http://www.travelchinacheaper.com/ for posting this! |
An amazing aspect of traveling by train versus flying in China - in my experience, anyways - is that the trains seem to leave either on time (at worst) or a few minutes early! Now, that's only two trains for me so far, but contrast those two experiences with the five or six flights I've taken out of Chinese airports in the last year, all of which were at least 30 minutes late, if not much later. (I'm thankful I've always had two or three hour layovers before connecting flights or I would have missed several of
 |
| My berth section heading out of Harbin. |
I didn't have any problems with other passengers trying to get into my things, but I was warned ahead of time to keep my valuables (money, credit cards, ID, tickets, phone, et cetera) with me at all times and given my already well established mistrust of others I always travel with a lock on my suitcase and smaller bags. When it's cold keeping your valuables on you is relatively easy since you can squirrel them away in the various pockets of your winter coat and wear it when you need to go to the bathroom stalls, which, being between the cars, are rather chilly. In warmer weather I imagine it would be a bit more difficult. (If I travel in the summer I think I'll lock a few things away in my suitcase for the duration of the trip and keep absolute essentials in my jeans pockets.) I also used my coat and messenger bag as a pillow when I went to bed to ensure my things didn't walk away during the night. (Better safe than sorry!) Although the lights go out around 10pm many passengers stay up talking or playing games with their berth mates till much latter, and there's enough going on that it would be relatively easy for someone to go up and down the car looking for easy pickings from those already asleep.
Once your train's underway an attendant will come through to switch your paper ticket for a flashy card showing the same information. Don't lose it, 'cause you'll need to switch it back shortly before arrival! (What the point of this switch is I do not know.) Food carts will start going up and down the train periodically, but as these are mostly noodle packs, sodas, and unhealthy snacks you might want to bring your own food with you. Only small bottles of water are sold, so if you drink a lot of water (like me) and don't trust the hot water dispensers found in nearly every public space here, then you'll want to bring a 1.5L bottle of water or two with you on the train. Many other passengers brought full (if cold)
 |
| If only this held for inside the train too! |
The 'hard' sleeper cars are basically one large dormitory, so there may be a bit of a smell when you get up. All the same, it's worth it to get a bunk somewhere in the middle of the car or else you'll get a lot of cigarette smoke from the spaces between the cars, which in addition to housing the bathroom stalls (floor toilets only on my cars) are also the designated smoking areas. (In defense of this, the stalls are in such a state that the smokers do something of a public service in covering up the smell with the cigarette smoke.) If your lungs are sensitive to such things though you might consider wearing a face mask (something PM2.5-proof) while on board, although you'd likely be the only one. (Between the epic sanitation fails, pollution, and universal smoking - indoors and out - China simply is not a health-friendly country.)
Even though I didn't fit on the sleeper bunks without some scrunching, I slept remarkably well on both of my overnight journeys and woke up much more refreshed than I ever have on an airplane. Arrival was more of the same from boarding - masses of people all trying to go in the same direction at once - and took a while. Although arrivals seem to be on time I wouldn't plan to be able to get anywhere fast - first there are the crowds, and then you have to go through more lines to show station officers your ticket (yet again) to exit the station. And given how many people arrive at once transportation - whether it's a taxi, bus, or the metro - is likely to involve a long line and at least half an hour of waiting. All the same, I enjoyed my train experience and wouldn't mind doing it again, especially given the possibility of rest and the reliability of the departure/arrival times! (And then of course there's the cost - my roundtrip on the train came in under $100, whereas the roundtrip flights would have been well over $300.) I hope any experiences you have on a Chinese train will be similarly enjoyable!
Evening Light
I was out wandering around Zhongyang Dajie with friends earlier this week and the evening light struck me with such a quiet peace as the day wore on. It was really striking how calm and peaceful the shift in light made otherwise busy and bustling Zhongyang Dajie feel!
A Fruit Platter with Chinese Characteristics
I'm still not used to going to events here and finding candied tomatoes and/or fruit platters with sliced tomatoes being served!
Stalin Park Sea Man
More Harbin awesomeness! (This from the south half of Stalin Park.) There are so many random monuments and sculptures here!
Spring in Stalin Park
A view of Gonglu Bridge from the south end of Harbin's riverfront Stalin Park. In theory it was spring here when this was taken, but it's still chilly enough that the trees didn't have buds yet a couple of weeks ago. (It's the end of April now and it's still nowhere near as green as I'd expected it would be.)
A view of another area of Stalin Park (around the Flood Control Monument) more recently, with the trees finally coming back to life!
A view of another area of Stalin Park (around the Flood Control Monument) more recently, with the trees finally coming back to life!
Maan Coffee
From my favorite cafe (so far!) here in Harbin, Maan Coffee. Great coffee, good food, chill music, a fun setup (a mix of industrial and elegant), and efficient staff. The only downside is the smokers and the cafe's failure to ban it. (Banning indoor smoking would probably cut their business by two thirds though, sadly enough.) Apparently there is a second location opening up soon, but for now you can get your Maan Coffee fix right next door to the Walmart off the top of Zhongyang Dajie, where the pedestrian street ends at Stalin Park and the Flood Control Monument. Enjoy!
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